Tirana is a compact city of about 900,000 people, wedged between Mount Dajt to the east and a flat plain to the west. The center is walkable in a couple of hours: Skanderbeg Square → the Pyramid → Blloku district with its bars and restaurants. The architecture is a wild mix: Ottoman mosques, Italian modernism, Soviet blocks, and fresh high-rises. The city isn't about postcard views – it's about energy: street coffee for 100 ALL, graffiti on every corner, and restaurants where lunch with wine runs 1,500–2,000 ALL. For a deeper dive into history, head down to Bunk'Art 2 – a former bunker in the center, converted into a secret police museum.
The country's only major airport is Tirana (TIA), 17 km from the center. The Luna Bus shuttle costs 400 ALL (≈ €4), a taxi runs about 2,500 ALL. Buses go from Tirana to all key cities: Berat (2.5 hrs), Saranda (5–6 hrs), Gjirokastra (4.5 hrs), Durres (40 min). Fixed schedules often don't exist – furgons (minibuses) depart when full. For trips along the riviera and into the mountains, it's easier to rent a car: from €35/day in summer. Best time to visit: May–June and September–October – no heat (summer can hit 38°C), accommodation prices drop 30–40%. Two to three days in Tirana is enough, then head south or into the mountains.
