Durres is Albania's second-largest city (about 290,000 people) and the country's main Adriatic port. Founded by Greeks in the 7th century BC as Epidamnos, it has seen 3,000 years of Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans. The main draw is the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre, the largest in the Balkans (20,000 spectators), accidentally discovered in 1966 among residential buildings. Nearby: the Venetian Tower, Byzantine Forum, and the 16th-century Fatih Mosque. Durres isn't about Italian-style Adriatic aesthetics – it's a working port city with a long (10+ km) beach, noisy summers, and cheap seafood.
From Tirana to Durres is 35–40 minutes by bus (200 ALL, ≈ €2) or by car on the SH2 highway. From Tirana Airport (TIA) it's 22 km, taxi about 3,000 ALL. A railway between Tirana and Durres is under construction (planned launch 2028, 22-minute journey). Durres works both as a beach base and a transit point: ferries to Bari and Ancona (Italy) depart from the port. Beach season runs June–September. In summer the city beach is packed; for quieter swimming try the southern coastline. In the shoulder season (April–May, October) Durres is great for exploring ruins without crowds or heat.
