Gjirokastra

The lek (ALL). Euros are accepted but less often than on the coast, and at unfavorable rates. Exchange booths near the Old Town entrance offer good rates. Cards are only accepted at larger hotels and restaurants – markets and small cafes are cash-only.

Bus from Tirana – ~4 hours, 6 services daily. From Saranda – 1–1.5 hours, several furgons daily. From Berat – morning bus (~3.5 hours with a transfer). From Greece (Ioannina) – direct bus or taxi to Kakavija border + furgon. A rental car gives maximum flexibility: the road from Saranda is scenic but winding.

One full day is the minimum for the castle, bazaar, and one or two house-museums. Two days let you add the hike to the Ali Pasha Bridge (45 minutes from town), dinner at a taverna with a view, and time to absorb the evening atmosphere. Gjirokastra pairs well with Berat on a 'two UNESCO cities' route.

Only in the Old Town – that is Gjirokastra. Guesthouses in Ottoman houses run €25–40 for a double room. The New Town is cheaper but pointless: all restaurants and sights are uphill. Book ahead in season – options are limited.

The Old Town center is completely safe, day and night. The city is small and tourism-oriented. The outskirts and New Town are less comfortable at night, but there's no aggressive crime. The main hazard is slippery stone streets after rain.

One of the most affordable places in Albania. Lunch for two at an Old Town taverna – €10–18. A burek costs ~€1. Try çomlek (meat stew), spit-roasted lamb, and local yogurt. Evening dinner at a restaurant overlooking the valley – €15–25 for two with wine.

Morning – the castle (2–3 hours with museums). Then descend through the Old Bazaar, visit Zekate House or Skenduli House. After lunch – the Ethnographic Museum, walk through the quarters. Evening – dinner on a terrace with a view.

Blue Eye – 25 km, easiest by car or with a tour, entry 100 ALL. Ancient Antigonea – 15 km, 4th-century BC excavations. The Field of Bunkers – 20 minutes south, over 700 Cold War-era concrete bunkers. Përmet – 30 km, thermal springs and canyons.

4G is available in the center but can drop out in the castle and on the outskirts. An eSIM or local SIM solves this. Wi-Fi in guesthouses works, speeds are average.

For Russian citizens – visa-free entry in season (April–October). Insurance is strongly recommended: the hospital in Gjirokastra is basic, serious cases mean evacuation to Tirana (4 hours). If coming from Greece – note that Greece requires a Schengen visa.

Yes. All sights are within 500 m of the bazaar's central junction. But factor in the terrain: the city is on a steep slope, and '500 meters' can mean a serious climb. Flat, non-slip footwear is essential.