Old Bazaar of Gjirokastër

The bazaar quarter consists of several streets converging at the central Qafa intersection. Gray stone buildings with slate roofs, rebuilt after 19th-century fires, maintain a uniform architectural style. Ground floors open onto the street with artisan workshops, souvenir shops, cafés, and restaurants. Each shop has a stone sidewalk-gallery in front – a rarity for bazaars of that period. Some shops had a separate rear entrance for the owner only.

A few meters from the Qafa stands the Bazaar Mosque (1757) – the only one of 13 mosques in Gjirokastër to survive the atheist campaign of the communist regime. Next to it is a former Bektashi tekke, now a madrasa (Islamic school). Along the bazaar streets, craftsmen work with wood, stone, and textiles. Some workshops offer hands-on experiences: cooking classes, woodcarving, and dressing up in traditional costumes.

Goods include woven carpets, ceramics, copperware, woodcrafts, and local products (honey, herbs, rakia). Prices are mostly fixed, but bargaining is possible when buying multiple items. The Ethnographic Museum of Gjirokastër and Skenduli House are within walking distance of the bazaar.

Central Qafa intersection – the most photographed spot in Gjirokastër, where the main bazaar streets converge

Bazaar Mosque (1757) – the only one of 13 city mosques to survive the communist-era demolitions

Uniform architecture – buildings rebuilt after a 19th-century fire in a consistent style, 2–3 stories of gray stone

Artisan workshops – hands-on classes in cooking, woodcarving, and traditional costumes

History – the trading quarter has existed since the 17th century; its current appearance dates to the 1879 reconstruction

Until the 15th century, Gjirokastër's residents lived mainly within the castle walls. By the 1580s, the town had grown to over 400 dwellings, and in the 17th century, Ottoman governor Memi Pasha laid out a new commercial quarter – the bazaar – with a mosque and radial streets converging at a central point. It was one of the first systematically planned commercial centers in the region. Gjirokastër became an important market for agricultural products, leatherworking, and woodworking, which provided the city's wealth.

The original bazaar was almost entirely destroyed by fire in the third quarter of the 19th century. It was rebuilt around 1879 – this is why the buildings share a uniform architectural style. Another fire in 1912 led to partial reconstruction using steel beams for the first time. Under the communist regime, all mosques in the city except the Bazaar Mosque (1757) were demolished. Today, the bazaar is Gjirokastër's tourist hub: traditional craft workshops sit alongside souvenir shops, restaurants, and cafés. Building restoration continues with the aim of preserving the historic character.

From the new town of Gjirokastër:

From Çerçiz Topulli Square – 10–15 minutes uphill on cobblestone streets. Taxis can drop you at the start of the bazaar quarter.

From Gjirokastër Castle:

Walk downhill from the castle to the bazaar – 5–10 minutes via stone staircases.

From Tirana:

Bus to Gjirokastër (1,200 ALL / ~€12, 4 hours), then from the bus station – 20–25 minutes on foot or 5 minutes by taxi (300 ALL / ~€3) to Çerçiz Topulli Square, then 10 minutes to the bazaar.

From Sarandë:

Bus or taxi to Gjirokastër (55 km, 1–1.5 hours), then walk up.

Season: April–October for the widest selection of goods and open workshops. In winter, some shops may be closed.

Time of day: Morning (09:00–11:00) is quieter and ideal for photography. Evening (after 17:00) is when the bazaar comes alive – lights go on, restaurants open, locals come out. Many travelers combine a morning castle visit with an evening bazaar stroll.

Duration: 1–2 hours for browsing and shopping. Combine with a visit to the Old Town and castle.

Avoid: Early morning off-season (shops may not open until 10:00).