Et'hem Bey Mosque

The mosque is a compact limestone building with a single dome and a cylindrical stone minaret. A colonnaded portico wraps around the north side – this is where the key frescoes are concentrated. The walls depict landscapes: trees, rivers with boats, bridges, waterfalls, and an island – themes that depart from the Islamic tradition of avoiding figurative imagery. One inscription inside compares the mosque to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.

The interior is a square prayer hall beneath a windowless dome. Walls and ceiling are covered with calligraphy and ornamental painting. The hall is small, holding a few dozen people at a time. The mosque underwent a full restoration supported by Turkey's TIKA agency from 2018 to 2021 and was reopened for worship in 2022, with the Turkish president attending the ceremony.

In front of the entrance, a small stone-paved courtyard provides a buffer from the bustle of the square. An attendant typically regulates visitor flow. Shoes must be removed before entering; women are offered a headscarf if needed.

Age – construction began in 1791 by Molla Bey, completed in 1821 by his son Haxhi Et'hem Bey

Frescoes – landscape paintings on the portico and interior depicting trees, bridges, and waterfalls – unique in Islamic art

Historic event – on January 18, 1991, 10,000 people entered the mosque defying the authorities, marking the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania

Restoration – full restoration in 2018–2021 supported by TIKA (Turkey), reopened in 2022

Architectural complex – forms a single ensemble with the adjacent Clock Tower from 1822

Construction began in 1791 (some sources say 1794) under Molla Bey, governor of Tirana and great-grandson of Sulejman Pasha. After his death, the work was completed by his son Haxhi Et'hem Bey by 1819–1821. The mosque was part of a complex that included the Old Bazaar, the Sulejman Pasha Mosque (built 1614, destroyed in WWII), and the Karapici Mosque.

In 1967, Enver Hoxha's communist regime declared Albania the world's first atheist state and shut down all religious institutions. The mosque was granted cultural monument status and restored in the 1960s–70s but was not used for worship. On January 18, 1991, defying the authorities, 10,000 people entered the mosque carrying flags – police did not intervene. The event became a milestone in the revival of religious freedom in Albania.

Location: Southeast corner of Skanderbeg Square, central Tirana.

From the airport (17 km, 25–35 min):

– Luna Bus shuttle – 400 ALL (≈ €4/$4), then 5 min walk

– Taxi – 2,000–2,500 ALL (€20–25/$22–27)

Around the city:

– Walk from anywhere in the center – most hotels are 5–15 min away

– City bus to Skanderbeg Square – 40 ALL (€0.40)

From other Albanian cities:

– Buses and shared minibuses (furgon) arrive at the south or north terminal, then 10–15 min walk to the square

Time of day: Early morning (before 10:00 AM) for fewer visitors and soft light on the frescoes. Late afternoon (after 3:00 PM) is also quieter.

Avoid: Prayer times (5 times daily) – tourists cannot enter the prayer hall. Friday prayers (around 12:00–1:30 PM) – the mosque is occupied by worshippers.

Duration: 15–20 minutes for a visit. Easy to combine with the Clock Tower (adjacent, 200 ALL / ≈ €2) and a walk around Skanderbeg Square.