Alaverdi Monastery

The cathedral stands in the middle of a flat valley, enclosed by 17th–18th-century fortification walls. It's visible for several kilometers on approach – a solitary vertical against the mountains. The cathedral measures 41.7 × 26.4 m; with its dome it exceeds 50 meters in height. Until Tbilisi's Sameba Cathedral was completed in 2004, this was the tallest church in Georgia. The plan is a cross with three apses inscribed in a rectangle, with galleries on the upper tier of the western side naves.

The exterior is austere: monumental blind arcades and niches provide the only decoration, giving the structure a sense of gravity and scale. The walls are fieldstone faced with hewn slabs of shirimi tuff, now heavily weathered. The interior volume is unmatched in Georgian architecture – the sheer space inside stops visitors in their tracks. Fragments of medieval frescoes survive. Around 9:30 AM, monks chant morning prayers – the sound reverberating through the stone vaults fills the entire cathedral.

Within the compound walls: a bell tower, the 17th-century Paykar Khan's Palace (brick residence of the ruler of Ganja), a wine cellar, bathhouse, and service buildings. Outside the walls – a vineyard with 80 grape varieties from across Georgia. Across the road – a tasting room for the monastery's wine, with matsoni yogurt topped with honey and walnuts served as dessert.

Height – over 50 m, tallest church in Georgia until 2004

Age – monastery founded in the 6th century, cathedral built in the early 11th century

Dimensions – 41.7 × 26.4 m, cross-in-square plan with three apses

Winemaking – monks produce wine in qvevri; vineyard with 80 grape varieties

Status – on the UNESCO Tentative List, active monastery

Alaverdoba – traditional festival on September 27, drawing pilgrims from across eastern Georgia

The monastery was founded in the mid-6th century by Joseph Alaverdeli, one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers who spread Christianity across Georgia. He settled in Alaverdi village, a former pagan center dedicated to the Moon. In the early 11th century, Kakhetian King Kvirike the Great replaced the small Church of St. George with a grand cathedral. Alaverdi became the episcopal center of Kakheti, and the cathedral served as the royal burial site for Kakhetian kings.

The cathedral was damaged repeatedly by earthquakes and invasions. The first major restoration occurred in the 1480s under King Alexander – the dome and wall sections were completely rebuilt. In the 1530s, Shah Abbas's forces destroyed the monastery, converting it to stables; it was liberated only in 1660. An 18th-century earthquake caused further damage, followed by another restoration. The monastery was closed in the 1930s. Revival began in the 1990s – monks now live and work here, producing wine in a tradition unbroken since 1011.

From Telavi (20 km, 25–30 minutes):

– Taxi – 15–20 GEL (~$5.50–7) one way

– Marshrutka toward Akhmeta – 2–3 GEL (~$1), ask driver to stop at Alaverdi

– Combine with Gremi and Ikalto – half-day taxi 50–70 GEL (~$18–25)

From Tbilisi (114 km, 2.5–3 hours):

– Rental car via Gombori Pass

– Day tour from Tbilisi – usually includes Telavi, Alaverdi, and Tsinandali

On site:

From the parking lot to the entrance – 2 minutes on foot. The compound is compact.

Season: Year-round. Spring (April–May) – green valley, orchards in bloom. Autumn (September–October) – grape harvest, Alaverdoba festival on September 27.

Time of day: Early morning (9:00–10:00 AM) – monks' morning prayers, fewest tourists, best light for photos. Evening – soft light on the façade.

Duration: 40–60 minutes for the monastery. With wine tasting – 1.5 hours.

Avoid: Midday in summer – hot, little shade. Weekends – more tour buses.