Telavi and Kakheti – Georgia's Wine Region: What to See, How to Get There, Prices

Kakheti is the region responsible for roughly 70% of all Georgian wine production, and Telavi serves as its unofficial capital and the best starting point for a wine route. People come here not for postcard views (though the Alazani Valley backed by the Caucasus range is genuinely stunning) but for hands-on experience: tastings at family marani cellars, fermentation in buried clay qvevri, and buying wine directly from producers at $6-15 per bottle. The distance from Tbilisi is about 95 km, roughly 1.5-2 hours by car via the Gombori Pass.

Key facts:

• 8,000 years of winemaking – Kakheti is considered the cradle of world viticulture, and the qvevri method is listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
• 15 of Georgia's 20 PDOs are located in Kakheti: Tsinandali, Mukuzani, Kindzmarauli, Tvishi, and more.
• Two key grape varieties – white Rkatsiteli and red Saperavi, plus dozens of indigenous varieties (Mtsvane, Khikhvi, Kisi) found nowhere else.
• Marshrutka from Tbilisi costs 10-15 GEL (about $4-6), departing from Ortachala bus station roughly every hour.
• A bottle of wine at producers runs 15-40 GEL ($6-15) – 3-5 times cheaper than Tbilisi wine shops.
• Best time to visit – September-October (Rtveli grape harvest) and May (Telavi Wine Festival).
• Budget at least 2 days for the region to avoid turning the trip into a sprint between wineries.

The most common option is a marshrutka from Ortachala bus station. Departures roughly every hour from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM, cost 10-15 GEL ($4-6). Marshrutkas leave when full – there is no fixed schedule. The ride takes 2-2.5 hours through the scenic Gombori Pass at 1,650 metres elevation. Note that in winter the pass can be closed or dangerous due to ice – the alternate route through the lowlands adds about an hour.

A taxi costs 70-100 GEL ($26-37) per car one way. Ride-hailing apps like Bolt or Maxim may offer cheaper options, but vehicle quality varies.

For those planning to visit multiple wineries, the best option is renting a car. Through Localrent you can find a sedan from $25 per day with pickup at Tbilisi International Airport or in the city. Check visa and driving licence requirements for your nationality before booking. More on car rental specifics in the article Car Rental in Georgia – Complete Guide and Hidden Pitfalls.

Important: if renting a car, confirm whether the Gombori Pass is included in permitted routes. Some rental companies restrict mountain road driving.

There are no direct marshrutkas from Batumi or Kutaisi – you will need to transfer in Tbilisi. By rental car from Batumi, the journey takes 7-8 hours.

Telavi is compact – the main sights can be covered on foot in half a day. Batonis Tsikhe is a former royal residence of the Kakhetian kings (17th-18th centuries) with Erekle II's palace, two churches, and a royal bathhouse. Admission is around 7 GEL ($2.50). Nearby stands a 900-year-old plane tree, one of the oldest in Georgia.

Chavchavadze House Museum in Tsinandali (15 minutes from Telavi) – the estate of poet and public figure Alexander Chavchavadze, who pioneered European-style winemaking in Georgia. The site includes an enotheque with a collection of 16,000 bottles and one of the finest gardens in the country.

Alaverdi Monastery – an 11th-century cathedral standing 50 metres tall, the second largest in Georgia. Continuous winemaking here dates back to 1011 AD, making it one of the oldest operating wineries on the planet. Entry is free, but the marani cellar is generally off-limits to visitors. Located 20 km from Telavi.

Shuamta Monastery Complex – two monasteries from different eras (5th-7th and 16th centuries) set in a forest 7 km from town. A quiet, atmospheric spot with few tourists.

Gremi Citadel and Church – ruins of a 16th-century trading town with the Church of the Archangels and a royal tower. Offers panoramic views over the Alazani Valley. Admission around 5 GEL ($2).

Dozens of wineries surround Telavi – from large commercial operations to family marani with 3-5 qvevri. A tasting at a family winery costs 15-55 GEL ($6-20) and typically includes 5-7 wines with light snacks. At larger producers, a guided tour with 7 wines runs about 35 GEL ($13).

A full-day organised wine tour from Tbilisi visiting 2-3 wineries with lunch and transfers costs $50-120 per person depending on the level. Tours can be booked through GetYourGuide or Viator.

Sighnaghi – the "City of Love" on a hilltop overlooking the Alazani Valley, about an hour's drive from Telavi. It features 18th-century fortress walls, cobbled streets, and a 24-hour wedding registry (yes, you can get married here at any time of day or night). Sighnaghi Fortress Wall and Bodbe Monastery with the tomb of St. Nino are essential stops.

(Updated: February 2026)

Georgia is one of the most affordable wine destinations in Europe. An average dinner with wine in Telavi costs 3-4 times less than a comparable meal in Tuscany or Bordeaux. Tourist-area restaurants in Kakheti run about 30% more than village taverns.

Accommodation in Kakheti can be booked through Booking.com or Trip.com. Guesthouses offering homemade wine and breakfast are the classic Kakhetian format worth experiencing.

Kakhetian cuisine is hearty and meat-driven. Mtsvadi is grilled meat cooked over vine-wood embers (the vine wood gives a distinctive aroma). Chakapuli is veal stewed with tarragon and sour plums. Khinkali – Georgia's signature dumplings – tend to be larger in Kakheti than in Tbilisi.

For street food, try churchkhela (walnuts coated in thickened grape must), made from fresh must in Kakheti. At the Telavi market, a strand costs 3-5 GEL ($1-2).

Wine: make sure to try Saperavi (dry red), Rkatsiteli (white), Mtsvane (aromatic white), and amber (orange) wines made using the qvevri method – the region's signature offering.

Getting around locally. Public transport between wineries is virtually nonexistent. Options: rent a car (then you need a designated driver), hire a local taxi for the day (40-60 GEL / $15-22), or join an organised tour.

Language. Outside Telavi and Sighnaghi, English is limited. Basic Georgian phrases ("gamarjoba" – hello, "madloba" – thank you) go a long way. At family marani, gestures and smiles will get you through.

Connectivity. Mobile coverage in the valley is reliable, but can drop in mountain villages. An eSIM is a convenient option for staying connected – more details in eSIM for Travel: How to Save on Roaming Charges.

Rtveli (September-October). If you visit during harvest season, this is the best time to come. Families invite visitors to help crush grapes by foot (yes, this is still practiced), followed by a supra feast with homemade wine and traditional toasts.

Payment. Most Kakhetian restaurants and guesthouses accept Visa and Mastercard. Cash in USD or EUR can be exchanged in Telavi. Check with your bank regarding international card fees before travelling.

Insurance. Medical facilities in the region are basic; the nearest major hospital is in Tbilisi. Travel insurance can be arranged through Ekta – a weekly policy starts at $7. More details in Travel Insurance for Georgia — What You Need to Know in 2026.

Tip: do not plan more than 2-3 wineries per day. After the third tasting, palate fatigue sets in, and the drive over the pass requires a sober driver.

1. How many days do I need for Kakheti? A minimum of 2 days, ideally 3-4. A single-day trip from Tbilisi can cover 2-3 wineries and one monastery, but it means 4-5 hours of driving. Staying overnight in Telavi or Sighnaghi allows you to see significantly more at a relaxed pace.

2. Can I visit wineries without a reservation? Yes, many family marani welcome drop-ins – just drive up and ask. Larger and boutique wineries are best booked 1-2 days ahead. During Rtveli season (September-October), reservations are essential almost everywhere.

3. Which wines are must-tries? Amber (orange) wine from qvevri – this is what draws wine enthusiasts from around the world. Saperavi – the flagship red, bold and tannic. Kindzmarauli – a semi-sweet red, popular with those who prefer off-dry styles. Tsinandali – a classic white blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane.

4. Is it safe to drive around Kakheti in a rental car? Roads are generally decent, with main routes paved. The Gombori Pass is a winding road with good surface, though it can be slippery in winter. The main risk is local driving habits: overtaking on blind corners and speeding. Stay alert, especially in the evening.

5. Is Kakheti worth visiting in winter? Vineyards are bare and the landscape is less photogenic, but wineries operate year-round. Pros: virtually no tourists and accommodation prices drop 20-30%. Cons: shorter daylight hours and the risk of Gombori Pass closure.

Kakheti is not a "wine Disneyland" – it is a living region with an 8,000-year winemaking history where wine still ferments in clay vessels buried underground. Telavi makes a convenient base for 2-3 days of exploration: monasteries, tastings, and Kakhetian cuisine combine with affordable prices and a 2-hour drive from Tbilisi. The best approach is to rent a car and move between wineries at your own pace, staying in guesthouses with homemade wine on the table.

Read also:

• What to See in Tbilisi in 1, 2, and 3 Days – Itineraries and Practical Tips
• Car Rental in Georgia – Complete Guide and Hidden Pitfalls
• Travel Insurance for Georgia — What You Need to Know in 2026

National Wine Agency of Georgia – statistics and PDOs – https://wine.gov.ge Georgian Railway – routes and schedules – https://railway.ge UNESCO – Qvevri tradition – https://ich.unesco.org