Gremi Citadel

The Gremi complex sits atop a rocky ridge and is visible from the Telavi–Kvareli highway several kilometers away. The Church of the Archangels is a cross-domed structure built of dressed stone with three entrances (west, south, north). Its proportions are atypical for Georgian churches – the building stretches upward, reflecting the influence of 16th-century Persian architecture. Inside, frescoes from 1577 survive with biblical scenes and portraits of King Levan and Queen Tinatin. The tomb of the founder, King Levan, is located to the right of the main entrance.

Beside the church stands the three-story palace-bell tower. The lower floors served as the royal residence; the top level functioned as a belfry. Today it houses a museum with archaeological finds: medieval ceramics, weapons (16th-century cannons and bows), Bronze Age jewelry, and 15th-century water pipes. From the fortress walls, the panorama stretches across the Alazani Valley with its vineyards and the Caucasus Range on the horizon. On clear days, snow-capped peaks are visible.

At the base of the hill lie the ruins of the trading town: fragments of a caravanserai, bathhouses, a market square, and Matarsa Church (1593–1595). Near the road stands a large portrait of Kakhetian Queen Ketevan, who was tortured to death by Shah Abbas in 1624 for refusing to convert to Islam.

Status – on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list since 2007

Age – church built in 1565, frescoes completed in 1577

Territory – the former town covered approximately 50 hectares with up to 100,000 residents

Architecture – a blend of Georgian stone masonry and 16th-century Persian style

Museum – over 2,000 exhibits, including Bronze Age artifacts and medieval weapons

Location – panoramic views of the Alazani Valley and Caucasus Range from the fortress walls

The town of Gremi was founded in the 15th century by King George I, the first ruler of the independent Kingdom of Kakheti. Under King Levan (r. 1520–1574), the town became the capital and a major trading hub on a branch of the Silk Road. In 1565, Levan built the Church of the Archangels and the palace-bell tower on the hilltop. The town below expanded to 50 hectares: markets, caravanserais, bathhouses, artisan quarters. At its peak, the population reached an estimated 100,000.

In 1615, the armies of Persian Shah Abbas I razed the town to the ground. Gremi never recovered, and in the mid-17th century the Kakhetian capital was moved to Telavi. The hilltop citadel survived – the walls, church, and palace stand to this day. The complex has been a museum-reserve since 1975. Recent decades have seen restoration of the walls, towers, and church frescoes.

From Telavi (20 km, 20–25 min):

– Shared minibus (marshrutka) to Kvareli – 2 GEL (~$0.75), stops right at the fortress

– Taxi – 15–20 GEL (~$6–7) one way

– Car rental – free parking at the base

From Tbilisi (150–175 km, 2.5–3 hours):

– By car via Gombori Pass or via Sagarejo–Gurjaani

– No direct minibuses – connect through Telavi or Kvareli

– Convenient to combine with a Kakheti day tour

On site:

From the roadside parking to the citadel – 5–7 minutes uphill on foot.

Season: April–October for comfortable weather. Autumn (September–October) is ideal: grape harvest in the valley, soft light.

Time of day: Morning (before 11:00) or evening (after 16:00) – fewer tour groups and better light for photos.

Duration: 40–60 minutes for the citadel and museum. Including the trading town ruins below – 1.5 hours.

Avoid: Summer weekends at midday (July–August) – hot (+35°C / 95°F) and crowded.