Batonis Tsikhe

The 5-meter-high fortress wall of rough limestone encircles a rectangular compound. At the southeast corner stands a round bastion 14 meters in diameter – unique in Georgia – which held 7.5-meter cannons in the early 19th century. The western gate features ornamental red brickwork. The dark cobblestone wall with sections of red brick creates a distinctive contrast. From the ramparts, the Alazani Valley stretches north toward the snow-capped Greater Caucasus.

Inside the walls, Erekle II's palace follows Persian architectural models, inspired by the Arg of Karim Khan in Shiraz. Round corner towers, massive stone walls, and the layout speak more of Isfahan than the Caucasus – the architecture reflected Georgian kings' diplomatic balancing act between Persia and the Ottoman Empire. The palace halls now house the Telavi Historical-Ethnographic Museum (operating since 1927): Erekle II's throne and ceremonial sword, a numismatic collection, 18th-century manuscripts, and royal household items.

A separate wing holds an art gallery featuring Georgian, Italian, Russian, and Dutch masters. Look for paintings by Jemal Khutsishvili, a Telavi-born artist who captured Kakhetian daily life – grape harvests, bread-baking, village scenes. Outside the walls, a bronze statue of Erekle II with a raised hand stands beside a viewpoint overlooking the city.

Area – the fortress compound covers 3 hectares in central Telavi

Walls – 5 m limestone battlements with watchtowers and two main gates

Bastion – circular artillery platform, 14 m in diameter, unique in Georgia

Architecture – Persian-style palace modeled on the Arg of Karim Khan (Shiraz)

Museum – operating since 1927, 19,628 items: Erekle II's throne, manuscripts, coins

Restoration – major renovation in 2018, new museum building added

The fortress was built in two phases: the first in 1667–1675 under King Archil, the second in the late 18th century under Erekle II. Archil constructed the original palace and chapel; Erekle II erected the city wall around all of Telavi, built a second church (1758), expanded the palace, and added a bathhouse and underground tunnel. The complex served as the main residence of Kakhetian kings until Russia annexed the Kartli-Kakheti kingdom in 1801. In 2018, Georgia's fifth president, Salome Zourabichvili, was inaugurated here.

After the Russian annexation, the fortress was handed to the Kabarda Regiment (1802), then transferred to the Imperial treasury (1805). Russian troops used the palace as barracks until 1845. During the 1812 Kakhetian uprising, rebels besieged the fortress for 15–20 days, causing serious damage. In 1865, architect Albert Salzmann rebuilt it for St. Nino's Women's College. In 1935, the palace became the Telavi Historical Museum. The 2018 restoration returned the complex to its historical appearance and added a new exhibition building.

From Tbilisi (94 km, 1.5–2.5 hours):

– Shared minibus (marshrutka) from Ortachala / Samgori – 15 GEL (~$5.50), departs when full

– Taxi via Bolt / Maxim – 80–100 GEL (~$30–36)

– Car rental – via Gombori Pass (winding scenic road) or via Gurjaani (easier route)

From Sighnaghi (55 km, 1–1.5 hours):

– Marshrutka – 5–7 GEL, several departures daily

– Taxi – 40–50 GEL (~$15–18)

Within Telavi:

The fortress is in the city center. From the bus station (bazaar) – 5 minutes uphill on foot. Address: Square 1, King Erekle II Street.

Season: April–October for comfortable weather. Best period: late August–October – grape harvest season (rtveli), golden autumn in the Alazani Valley.

Time of day: Morning (10:00–12:00) – fewer visitors, soft light. Sunset – valley views from the walls.

Duration: 1–2 hours for the museum and grounds. Add Nadikvari Park and the plane tree – 2.5–3 hours total.

Avoid: Mondays – museum closed (grounds still accessible). Summer weekends (July–August) – tour groups.