Italian Charnel House in Kobarid

The road to the charnel house begins at Trg Svobode square in Kobarid. At the start of the climb, two stone pillars stand at the entrance – one bearing a cross, the other the Star of Italy. Along the switchback road, 14 sculptural Stations of the Cross by Giannino Castiglioni are placed at intervals. Each station is a stone bas-relief that can be studied on the way up.

The ossuary itself is built as three concentric octagons, narrowing upward. The lower tiers have green serpentine marble slabs set into the walls, inscribed with the names of 5,266 identified soldiers. Below each name appears the word 'Presente' ('Here') – a characteristic fascist commemorative device implying the dead remain 'on duty'. Six tombs flanking the central staircases hold the remains of 1,748 unidentified soldiers.

At the summit stands the Church of St. Anthony of Padua, consecrated in 1696 – predating the ossuary by 240 years. Inside, a fresco of the Last Judgement by local artist Luna Šarf survives. Behind the charnel house are memorials to soldiers killed in a gas attack during the 12th Battle of the Isonzo near Bovec. A former custodian's house next door hosts a private museum collection, 'Kobarid During the Great War 1917'.

Scale – remains of 7,014 Italian soldiers, including 1,748 unidentified, gathered from military cemeteries across the Soča valley

Architecture – three concentric octagons designed by architect Giovanni Greppi and sculptor Giannino Castiglioni

Stations of the Cross – 14 stone bas-reliefs along the switchback road to the hilltop, also by Castiglioni

Church of St. Anthony – built in 1696 atop the hill, with a surviving Last Judgement fresco

Panorama – views of the Soča valley, the town of Kobarid, and the Julian Alps from 309 m elevation

Status – the only Italian military memorial located on foreign soil and maintained by the Italian government

The charnel house was built between 1936 and 1938, commissioned by Italy's Extraordinary Commissioner for the Honouring of the War Dead, Ugo Cei. Construction was carried out by Costruzioni Marchioro of Vicenza, which simultaneously worked on memorials at Redipuglia and Monte Grappa. The architect was Giovanni Greppi; the sculptor, Giannino Castiglioni. Remains were transferred from military cemeteries at Drežnica, Kamno, Bovec, Kobarid, and other Soča valley towns. The inauguration took place on 20 September 1938, officiated by Benito Mussolini.

The memorialisation of Caporetto posed a challenge for Italy: the 1917 defeat was seen as a national disgrace. Mussolini's approach to war memorials was assertive rather than mournful – they were conceived as 'watchtowers of the nation' (sentinelle della patria). After WWII, the territory passed to Yugoslavia, but Italy retained maintenance rights over the ossuary. In 1981, memorials from the Bovec military cemetery were relocated here. Since 1991, the charnel house has stood in independent Slovenia and remains the only Italian military memorial outside Italian territory.

On foot from Kobarid centre (15–20 minutes):

From Trg Svobode square, take Gregorčičeva ulica to the two stone pillars marked with a cross and star. Follow the road Pot na Gradič up the switchbacks past the Stations of the Cross. An alternative approach is from Napoleon Bridge via a path along the right bank of the Soča.

By car:

The road to the summit is paved but narrow – single lane with passing places. Parking at the top for 5–10 cars.

As part of the Kobarid Historical Trail:

The charnel house is the second stop on the 5 km circular route. From the museum, the climb takes 15 minutes.

From Ljubljana: first reach Kobarid (105 km, 1 h 40 min by car or 3 hours by Nomago bus, €14–25 / ~$15–27 USD)

Season: accessible year-round, though the road may be icy in winter. Best from May to October.

Time of day: early morning (before 9:00 AM) for panoramic photos in soft light and without crowds. Sunset light is also photogenic, but the grounds close at dusk.

Duration: 30–45 minutes for the charnel house and panorama. Combined with the Historical Trail, it's part of a 3–5-hour route.

Avoid: on hot days, the uphill walk is tiring – better to drive up or go early in the morning.