Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument

The monument is a massive semicircular concrete structure resting on seven columns, cantilevered over a 600-metre drop. It was designed by Zurab Tsereteli with architect Giorgi Chakhava, built in stone and concrete in a late-Soviet modernist style. The inner wall features a mosaic mural by artists Zurab Kapanadze, Zurab Lezhava, and Nodar Malazoni. The mosaic is split into two halves: Georgian historical figures and mythology on the left, Russian on the right, with a mother-and-child figure at the centre. Lines from Rustaveli's 12th-century epic "The Knight in the Panther's Skin" appear in both Georgian and Russian.

The platform offers panoramic views of Devil's Valley (Jvari), the Greater Caucasus ridges, and the switchbacks of the Georgian Military Highway far below. On clear days, peaks are visible for dozens of kilometres. The area around the monument is open and windy – winter temperatures can drop to –15°C. Souvenir and snack vendors operate near the car park. Drone flights at the site incur a nominal 30 GEL (~$11/€10) fee, though enforcement is inconsistent.

Elevation – 2,384 m above sea level, 600 m cliff above Devil's Valley

Year built – 1983, marking 200 years of the Treaty of Georgievsk (1783)

Creators – designed by Zurab Tsereteli, architecture by Giorgi Chakhava

Mosaic – full-circumference coloured tile mural depicting Georgian and Russian history

Panorama – views of Devil's Valley, Caucasus ridge, and Georgian Military Highway switchbacks

Entry – free admission, 24/7 access

The monument was erected in 1983 to mark the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk – the 1783 agreement between the Russian Empire and the Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti that established Georgia as a Russian protectorate. The project by Zurab Tsereteli and Giorgi Chakhava was one of three monuments built for the anniversary: the second was installed in Moscow, the third on the outskirts of Tbilisi. Not everyone in Georgia welcomed the celebrations – anti-Soviet activists staged protests, and the underground publication Sakartvelo dedicated a special issue highlighting Russia's violations of the treaty.

After the fall of the USSR, the monument fell into disrepair and the mosaic began to crumble. Restoration was carried out in the 2010s: the mural was repaired and the surroundings landscaped. Today the arch is one of the most photographed spots on the Georgian Military Highway and a standard stop on the Tbilisi–Kazbegi route. Despite the complex political context of Russian-Georgian relations, the monument retains significance as an architectural example of late-Soviet modernism.

From Tbilisi (120 km, 2–2.5 hours):

– By rental car via the Georgian Military Highway – free parking

– Day tour Tbilisi–Kazbegi with a stop at the Arch – from 80–120 GEL (~$30–45/€28–42) per person

– Shared minibus (marshrutka) from Didube metro station to Stepantsminda – 25 GEL (~$9/€8); ask the driver to stop at the monument (not guaranteed)

From Gudauri (10 km, 10–15 minutes):

– Taxi – 15–20 GEL (~$6–7/€5–7)

– On foot – 6 km via dirt road from New Gudauri (1.5–2 hours, 200 m elevation gain)

From Kazbegi (40 km, 40–50 minutes):

– Taxi – 40–50 GEL (~$15–19/€14–17)

– On the return trip to Tbilisi – ask the marshrutka driver to stop

Season: May–October offers comfortable weather and good visibility. Accessible in winter but very cold (down to –15°C); the Gudauri–Kobi section of the highway may close due to avalanche risk.

Time of day: Early morning (before 10:00 AM) – fewer tourists and softer light. Sunset is also good for photos, but the platform can be very windy.

Duration: 20–30 minutes for viewing and photos.

Avoid: Midday in summer (11:00 AM–3:00 PM) – peak tour-bus traffic, car park overflows. In fog or low cloud, the panorama is invisible.