Abanotubani

Abanotubani is a compact district along Abano, Grishashvili, and Akhundov Streets, lined with bathhouse complexes dating from the 17th–19th centuries. The architectural signature of the area is the brick domes rising from the ground: the semi-underground halls are covered by vaults with openings for steam and light. The most photogenic façade belongs to Chreli Abano (Colourful Bath, also known as Orbeliani Baths): blue mosaic tilework in a Persian style with arches and ornamental patterns, often mistaken for a mosque. The building was constructed in 1893 inspired by earlier baths; the facing was renewed in 1984 by Uzbek craftsmen.

Inside the baths, private rooms contain pools of hot sulfur water (38–40°C / 100–104°F), stone slabs for the traditional "kisi" scrub, and showers. Higher-end rooms include cold plunge pools, Finnish or Turkish saunas, and lounge areas with sofas. The water comes directly from thermal springs, and the hydrogen sulfide smell is noticeable well before you reach the district. The "kisi" scrub – a vigorous exfoliation with a coarse glove performed by a mekise (attendant) – removes dead skin and leaves the body smooth.

Beyond the baths, the district rewards a short walk to the Leghvtakhevi Gorge with a small waterfall (5 minutes on foot), up the stairs to the Juma Mosque – the only mosque in Tbilisi surviving from the 1840s – and further up to Narikala Fortress.

Age – hot sulfur springs known since the 5th century, operating bathhouses since the 17th–18th centuries

Water temperature – 38–40°C (100–104°F), natural thermal water rich in sulfur, calcium, and magnesium

Chreli Abano – Persian-style mosaic facade (1893), the most photographed building in Abanotubani

Famous visitors – Alexander Pushkin, Alexandre Dumas, and Anton Chekhov bathed here in the 19th century

Number of baths – around 10 operating establishments, from budget communal halls to luxury private rooms

Kisi – traditional Georgian exfoliation scrub with a coarse glove, 10–20 GEL (~$4–8)

The sulfur springs at this site were known long before the city's founding. According to legend, in the 5th century King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered a hot spring during a hunting trip when his falcon (or a shot pheasant, depending on the version) fell into boiling water. The king was so impressed that he ordered a city built on the spot. By the 13th century, Abanotubani had 65 bathhouses, described by Marco Polo for their therapeutic properties. The baths served not only for hygiene but as social hubs: business deals were struck, marriages arranged, and civic matters debated within their steamy chambers.

After the devastating invasion by Persian Shah Agha Mohammad Khan in 1795, the city and its baths suffered severe damage. Most current buildings date from the 17th–19th centuries. Chreli Abano was built in 1893; its mosaic façade was renewed in 1984. In 2017, Chreli Abano underwent major renovation and reopened as a modern spa complex with period interiors. Today, around 10 bathhouses in the district serve hundreds of tourists and locals daily.

From central Tbilisi:

– On foot from Freedom Square – 10–12 minutes via Kote Abkhazi and Sioni Streets to Meidan Square.

– On foot from the Bridge of Peace – 8–10 minutes along the embankment through Meidan Square.

– Avlabari metro – 15 minutes on foot across the bridge and downhill.

– Bolt taxi – 5–8 GEL (~$2–3) from anywhere in the centre.

From Narikala Fortress:

– On foot downhill – 7–10 minutes via stairs past the Juma Mosque.

On site:

The district is compact – all bathhouses are within a 200 m radius on Abano and Grishashvili Streets.

Season: Year-round. In winter (November–March), the sulfur baths are especially pleasant in cool weather. Summer can be hot in the district – come in the morning or evening.

Time of day: Morning (before 11:00) – shorter queues at the baths. Evening (after 18:00) – atmospheric dome lighting. For photos of the Chreli Abano façade – morning light works best.

Duration: 30–40 minutes for a walk through the district. 1–1.5 hours for a standard bath session. Full visit with strolling and bathing – 2–3 hours.

Avoid: Weekend evenings in high season (May–September) – book baths in advance.