Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

The cathedral stands on flat ground in the very centre of Mtskheta – visible from nearly every point in town. The complex is enclosed by a tall 18th-century stone wall with bull heads above the entrance gates – a legacy of Mtskheta's pre-Christian, Mithraic past. The courtyard features a well-kept garden with lawns, olive trees, and rose bushes. From here, Jvari Monastery is clearly visible on the hill above.

Inside is a spacious cross-dome interior. The dome sits at the intersection of all four sides of the church. The walls were once fully covered in frescoes, but in the 1830s Russian authorities whitewashed them ahead of a planned visit by Emperor Nicholas I (who never came). After restoration, fragments from the 13th century survive – a depiction of the "Beast of the Apocalypse" and zodiac figures (the only zodiac circle in Georgian churches). Tombstones of Georgian kings from the Bagrationi dynasty are set into the floor. At the centre of the nave stands a stone canopy over the Life-Giving Pillar, beneath which Christ's Robe is said to be buried. Nearby is a small replica of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem.

The western facade has the richest and best-preserved decoration: carved grapevines (a symbol of Georgian winemaking), 11th-century stone ornaments. On the exterior wall is Georgia's first sundial, shaped like a peacock. The cathedral is an active place of worship – on weekends, several weddings and baptisms often take place simultaneously.

Age – the first church on this site was built in the 4th century; the current structure dates to 1010–1029

Christ's Robe – tradition holds that Christ's garment, brought from Jerusalem in the 1st century, is buried beneath the Life-Giving Pillar

Size – 54 m under the dome, the second largest church in Georgia

Frescoes – surviving 13th-century fragments, including the only zodiac circle found in Georgian churches

Royal tombs – tombstones of Georgian kings from the Bagrationi dynasty are embedded in the floor

Architecture – cross-dome plan, carved 11th-century facade decoration, stone grapevine motifs

The first church on this site was built in the 4th century under King Mirian III after Saint Nino converted Georgia to Christianity. According to legend, in the 1st century a Georgian Jew named Elias brought Christ's Robe from Jerusalem. His sister Sidonia touched the robe and died – she was buried with the relic. A cedar tree grew over her grave, later becoming the "Life-Giving Pillar" (Svetitskhoveli translates as "life-giving pillar"). In the 5th century, King Vakhtang Gorgasali built a three-nave basilica on the site.

The present cathedral was built in 1010–1029 by architect Arsukidze, commissioned by Catholicos Melchizedek I. Over the centuries, the church was damaged by Arabs, Persians, Tamerlane, and earthquakes, but was restored each time. The dome collapsed and was rebuilt in the 15th century, then repaired again in the 17th century. In 1787, King Erekle II ordered a fortification wall built around the cathedral. In the 1830s, Russian authorities whitewashed medieval frescoes. A major restoration in 1970–71, led by Vakhtang Tsintsadze, uncovered the 5th-century basilica foundation beneath the current floor.

From Tbilisi (20 km, 20–40 min):

– Marshrutka from Didube metro station – 2 GEL (~$0.75 / €0.70), every 20–30 min (7:00–20:00). Get off in central Mtskheta – 5-minute walk to the cathedral

– Bolt taxi – 20–30 GEL (~$7–11 / €6–10)

– Car rental – parking available near the cathedral

– Train from central station – 2 GEL, 24 min, but Mtskheta railway station is 2 km from the centre

From Jvari Monastery (4 km):

– Taxi – 10–15 GEL, 10 min

Walking within Mtskheta:

From Samtavro Monastery – 300 m, 5 min. All main sites in town are within walking distance.

Season: Year-round. The cathedral is indoors, so weather is not critical. Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the most comfortable for walking around Mtskheta.

Time of day: Morning (9:00–11:00) – fewer tourists. Avoid weekends if you prefer to skip weddings and baptisms (though they can be an interesting experience).

Duration: 30–60 minutes for the cathedral. With the courtyard and souvenirs – up to 1.5 hours.

Avoid: Sunday liturgy – tourist access is limited. Summer weekends (June–August) – peak crowds.