Samtavro Monastery

Beyond the monastery gates lies a quiet, well-tended courtyard – a stark contrast to the tourist bustle around Svetitskhoveli. The nuns maintain the garden year-round: cypresses, firs, maples, rose bushes, and photinia shrubs (especially fragrant in May). Pathways are lined with roses and ornamental shrubs – the grounds feel more like a botanical garden than a monastic yard.

The main church is the 11th-century Transfiguration Church, a cross-dome structure with decorative stonework typical of Georgian architecture. The dome was destroyed by an earthquake in 1283 and rebuilt at the turn of the 13th–14th centuries. Inside are 16th–17th century frescoes (the originals did not survive), an 18th-century stone iconostasis, and numerous icons and relics. Sacred objects include Saint Nino's blackberry bush, a piece of the Life-Giving Pillar, and the miraculous Iverian Icon of the Mother of God. Set into the church floor are the tombs of King Mirian III and Queen Nana – Georgia's first Christian monarchs.

To the right of the entrance is the small Church of Saint Nino, presumably from the early medieval period, rebuilt multiple times. In the northwest corner of the wall stands a three-storey 15th–16th century bell tower: the ground floor serves as the entrance, the second was used for living and observation, and the third is an open belfry. In the courtyard is the grave of Saint Gabriel (canonised in 2012), now a pilgrimage site.

Founded – 4th century, built by King Mirian III where Saint Nino lived and prayed

Royal tombs – graves of King Mirian III and Queen Nana, Georgia's first Christian rulers

Church – 11th-century Transfiguration Church with 18th-century stone iconostasis and 16th–17th century frescoes

Relics – Saint Nino's blackberry bush, a piece of the Life-Giving Pillar, the Iverian Icon of the Mother of God

Gardens – beautifully maintained monastery grounds with cypresses, roses, and ornamental shrubs

Saint Gabriel – grave of a monk canonised in 2012, now a major pilgrimage site

The monastery was founded in the 4th century by King Mirian III. Saint Nino, who came from Cappadocia, found shelter here and lived under a blackberry bush while preaching Christianity. After Mirian and Queen Nana converted to Christianity, the monastery became the centre of the new faith. The king and queen were buried here – Samtavro became the burial vault for the church's highest hierarchs. The name translates as "ruler's place" (from Georgian mtavari – "ruler"). Generous donations made it one of the wealthiest monasteries in Georgia for centuries.

The present Transfiguration Church was built in the first half of the 11th century, likely shortly after Svetitskhoveli, under Catholicos Melchizedek I. The dome was destroyed by an earthquake in 1283 and rebuilt in the late 13th – early 14th century. The fortification wall dates to the late Middle Ages, the bell tower to the 15th–16th centuries. Original frescoes did not survive – the current ones date to the 16th–17th centuries. During the Soviet period, a group of nuns preserved the monastery by establishing textile workshops. Today Samtavro is an active nunnery.

From Tbilisi (20 km, 20–40 min):

– Marshrutka from Didube metro station – 2 GEL (~$0.75 / €0.70), every 20–30 min. The marshrutka stop is close to the monastery

– Bolt taxi – 20–30 GEL (~$7–11 / €6–10)

– Car rental

Walking within Mtskheta:

From Svetitskhoveli Cathedral – 300 m, 5 min north along the main street. From the Tbilisi marshrutka stop – 5 min walk.

As part of a guided tour:

All standard Mtskheta tours include Samtavro alongside Svetitskhoveli and Jvari.

Season: Year-round. Spring (May) – the garden is in bloom, photinia bushes are especially fragrant. Autumn – warm leaf colours.

Time of day: Morning – quiet, minimal visitors, true monastic atmosphere. Midday (11:00–15:00 in summer) – tour group crowds.

Duration: 20–40 minutes. With the garden and small church – up to 1 hour.

Avoid: Sunday morning (services). Summer weekends – peak group tour traffic.