Jvari Monastery

The church sits on a rocky outcrop with a 270° panorama – the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari (Kura) rivers, the town of Mtskheta with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral at its centre, and mountain ridges on the horizon. Two streams – the muddy brown Mtkvari and the lighter Aragvi – merge directly below the hill, and on clear days the boundary between the two waters is distinctly visible. The terrace in front of the church is the main viewpoint; it is almost always windy here.

The church itself is compact: under 25 m tall, with a tetraconch plan (four apses with four niches between them). The dome rests on the walls rather than pillars, supported by three rows of squinches – 32 facets transition into the base of the drum. This creates a sense of unified space that feels larger than its actual dimensions. Inside, the space is dim – light enters through narrow window slits, with candles providing the main illumination. A wooden cross stands on a stone pedestal at the centre – believed to be the base of Saint Nino's original 4th-century cross.

The facades preserve 6th–7th century bas-reliefs depicting the church's builders – Erismtavari Stepanoz I, Demetre, and Adarnase. Inscriptions are carved in Asomtavruli script, one of the oldest Georgian alphabets. Around the church are remnants of medieval fortification walls and gates. On the south side of the main church, a narrow trail leads to Saint Nino's spring.

Age – built between 590 and 605 AD, one of the oldest surviving churches in Georgia

UNESCO – World Heritage Site since 1994 as part of the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta

Architecture – the first cross-dome tetraconch in Georgia, a model for dozens of subsequent churches

Elevation – 656 m above sea level, panoramic views of two rivers merging and the ancient capital

Bas-reliefs – facade carvings depict the church builders with inscriptions in ancient Georgian Asomtavruli script

Saint Nino's Cross – stone pedestal at the church centre, where a 4th-century wooden cross that converted Georgia to Christianity once stood

In the 4th century, Saint Nino erected a wooden cross on the hilltop above the river confluence – on the site of a pagan sanctuary. The cross became a pilgrimage centre. Around 545 AD, the ruler of Kartli, Guaram I, built a small church here. His son, Erismtavari Stepanoz I, constructed the present "Great Church of Jvari" between 590 and 605 AD. The church became the first example of the cross-dome type in Georgian architecture and influenced temple construction across the region. In 914, during the Sajid invasion, the church was damaged by fire but survived.

In the late Middle Ages, the complex was fortified with a stone wall and gate – their remnants are still visible. During the Soviet period, the church was preserved as a national monument, but access was difficult due to a nearby military base. After Georgia gained independence in 1991, the monastery was returned to the church, and monks have lived here again since 1996. In 2004, the World Monuments Fund placed Jvari on its watch list due to erosion from acid rain and wind.

From Tbilisi (25 km, 30–40 min):

– Bolt/Maxim taxi – 25–40 GEL (~$9–15 / €8–14) one way

– Car rental – via Tbilisi–Senaki highway, exit at Mtskheta

– Marshrutka to Mtskheta from Didube metro station – 2 GEL (~$0.75), every 20–30 min, then taxi to Jvari

From Mtskheta (4 km):

– Taxi from town centre – 20–25 GEL (~$7–9 / €6–8) round trip with 30–40 min waiting

– Walking is not practical – requires crossing the river and highway, no pedestrian route

As part of a guided tour:

Most day tours from Tbilisi include Jvari + Svetitskhoveli + Samtavro. Group tours from 50–80 GEL (~$18–30 / €17–28) per person.

Season: April–October for comfortable weather. Winter roads can be icy, but the church is accessible year-round.

Time of day: Early morning (before 10:00) – fewest tourists, clear air. Sunset (18:00–19:30 in summer) – best light for photos, golden glow on the facades and panorama.

Duration: 40–60 minutes for the church and photos. With travel from Mtskheta – 1.5–2 hours.

Avoid: Midday in July–August (hot, no shade, tour bus crowds from 11:00 to 15:00). On windy days, the terrace can be cold even in summer.