Motsameta Monastery

The monastery occupies a narrow rocky promontory surrounded by the Tskaltsitela River on three sides. The approach follows a stone road through dense forest; from the car park to the gates is about 500 m. Before the entrance – an arched stone bridge and a viewing platform overlooking the gorge. The surrounding Colchic forest stays green year-round. Despite being only 6 km from central Kutaisi, it feels completely isolated.

The Church of Saints David and Constantine is the main building. A single-storey stone structure with tall arched windows, bas-reliefs, round towers, and conical domes with tiled roofs. Inside – modern frescoes (the originals did not survive), painted by Georgian artists in the 2010s. The main relic is the sarcophagus containing the bones of brothers David and Constantine, raised on a platform. Beneath the reliquary is a narrow passage: according to tradition, walking through it three times with a pure wish will make it come true.

The grounds include an 1846 two-tier bell tower, monks' cells, service buildings, and a freshwater spring. The entire complex is compact – a full circuit takes 20 minutes. Stone pathways, narrow passages, and bridges create the atmosphere of a medieval castle.

Setting – rocky promontory above a river bend, surrounded by water and forest on three sides

Cliff elevation – monastery stands on a precipice, 30–40 m above the gorge

Holy relics – sarcophagus with the bones of brothers David and Constantine, passage beneath for wish-making

Atmosphere – the most intimate and quiet of Kutaisi's three monasteries, few tourists

Motsametoba – annual feast day on October 15 honouring the martyred brothers, drawing pilgrims from across Georgia

Stone architecture – bridges, passages, and pathways evoke a medieval castle

A church stood on this site since the 4th century. In the 8th century, during the Arab invasion of Georgia, the region of Argveti was ruled by brothers David and Constantine Mkheidze. After a failed uprising against the Arabs, the brothers were captured and brought before commander Marwan II. They were offered their lives in exchange for converting to Islam. The brothers refused, were tortured, and thrown into the river. Legend says the river waters turned red with their blood – hence the name Tskaltsitela (Red Water).

Locals found the brothers' bodies and buried them at the ancient church site. Georgian King Bagrat III built the monastery here in the 11th century in honour of the martyrs. During the Soviet era the monastery fell into neglect. Major restoration was carried out in the 2010s: walls were reinforced, interiors renovated, and a stone road was laid. Since the historic frescoes did not survive, the walls and vaults were repainted by Georgian artists in a contemporary style.

From Kutaisi (6 km, 10–15 min by car):

– Taxi – 10–12 GEL (~$4) one way

– On weekends – marshrutkas from the central bus station (check schedule)

– Any Kutaisi–Gelati marshrutka passes the Motsameta turn-off – then 1.8 km walk

From Gelati Monastery (on foot, ~1 hour):

– Downhill along the road – 3 km to the turn-off, then 1.8 km to the monastery

– Through the forest along the railway tracks – shorter, but the trail isn't always obvious

From Motsameta back to Kutaisi:

– Walk along the railway tracks – about 1 hour

– Walk to the main road (1.8 km) and flag down any marshrutka heading to the city

– Taxi via Bolt – 10–12 GEL

Season: Year-round. Spring and autumn offer the best weather and most vivid forest colours. Summer is green and shady. Winter – bare trees reveal gorge views.

Time of day: Early morning or late afternoon – fewest visitors. Sunset light beautifully illuminates the stone walls.

Duration: 30–40 minutes for the monastery.

Avoid: October 15 (Motsametoba feast day) if you want solitude. Conversely, if you want to see a traditional celebration – it's the best day to visit.