Onufri National Iconographic Museum

The museum occupies the Cathedral of the Dormition of St. Mary, built in 1797 in post-Byzantine style. From outside, it's a modest white-plastered façade behind a stone enclosure. Inside, the contrast is striking: a gilded wooden iconostasis from 1807 stretches the full width of the interior. Carved by masters Stefan Barka and Naum Ngjela from the Opari region in the early 19th century, it's considered the finest example of Albanian church woodcarving. The iconostasis features 12 royal icons and 27 smaller festive icons with Baroque-style elements.

The collection spans three halls. The centerpieces are Onufri's icons: 'Jesus' Appearance in the Temple,' 'Mary with Child,' and 'John the Baptist.' They're distinguished by the characteristic red pigment – known as 'Onufri's Red' – whose formula the master never revealed. Alongside are works by his son Nikolla, David Selenica, Kostandin Shpataraku, and the Çetiri family of painters. Silver liturgical items by local artisans complement the icon collection.

The museum also holds the Purple Codex of Berat (6th century) and the Golden Codex of Anthimos (9th century) – manuscripts inscribed in UNESCO's Memory of the World Register.

Collection – 200 works: icons, liturgical items, and silverwork from the 14th–20th centuries, gathered from regional churches and monasteries

Onufri's Red – a unique pigment first used by Onufri in the 16th century; the formula was lost after his death

Iconostasis – gilded wooden iconostasis from 1807 spanning the full width of the cathedral, with 12 royal and 27 festive icons

UNESCO manuscripts – the Purple Codex of Berat (6th c.) and Golden Codex of Anthimos (9th c.) in the Memory of the World Register

Building – the 1797 Cathedral of the Dormition of St. Mary, the largest post-Byzantine monument in Berat

The Cathedral of the Dormition of St. Mary was built in 1797 within Berat Castle, becoming the main church of the Kala quarter. Under Ottoman rule, Christians were permitted to build churches inside the castle walls, and the cathedral became the center of the Orthodox community's religious life. The iconostasis was created in 1807 by craftsmen from the villages of Misrasi and Lavdari in the Opari region, exemplifying a blend of traditional Orthodox and Baroque styles.

In 1967, Albania was declared an atheist state and most of the country's religious buildings were destroyed or shuttered. The cathedral survived – likely due to the value of its icon collection. In 1986, the National Iconographic Museum was established here, assembling icons and liturgical objects from churches and monasteries throughout the region. The museum operates under the Berat Museum Center, administered by Albania's Ministry of Culture.

From central Berat:

– Walk to the castle: 15–20 minutes uphill, then 5–7 minutes through castle lanes to the cathedral

– Taxi to castle gate: 300–500 ALL (~$3–5), then walk

From Tirana (93 km):

– Bus: every 30–40 minutes, 400–500 ALL (~$5–6 / €4–5), 2–2.5 hours

– From Berat bus station to the museum: taxi + walk totals about 25 minutes

On site:

The museum is at the highest point of the castle. Signs within the castle lead to the cathedral.

Season: May–September for full hours (9:00–18:00 daily). November–April: reduced schedule (Tue–Sat 9:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00), closed Mondays.

Time of day: mornings for fewer visitors and a cooler climb in summer.

Duration: 45–60 minutes including the audio guide.

Avoid: Mondays in winter (museum closed). Midday in summer – the uphill walk is punishing in the heat.