Kazbegi National Park

The park spans from narrow river gorges to snow-covered Caucasus peaks. The main landmark is Mount Kazbek, a dormant volcano with an ice cap, visible from every point in the valley. Below it, at 2,170 m, stands the 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church – a stone temple against a glacier backdrop, one of Georgia's most recognizable symbols. The hike up takes 1–1.5 hours from Gergeti village; a 4WD taxi ride is 15 minutes.

North of Stepantsminda, the Georgian Military Highway follows the Dariali Gorge – a deep rift between cliffs with the Terek River roaring at the bottom. In a side branch of the gorge, the Gveleti Waterfalls – two cascades (big and small) – are tucked into a green canyon. Near the Russian border sits the Dariali Monastery, a modern complex built from pinkish-grey stone.

West of Stepantsminda, Truso Valley opens up – a dirt road leads past mineral springs, travertines, and abandoned Ossetian villages to mineral Lake Abano at 2,127 m. Eastward – the Sno Valley with its stone heads and the road to Juta village (2,150 m), the starting point for routes to the Chaukhi Massif. The park's fauna includes the East Caucasian tur, chamois, brown bear, lynx, and large raptors – bearded vulture, griffon vulture, and golden eagle.

Area – 8,700 hectares of protected territory from 1,400 to 5,047 m elevation

Flora – 1,347 plant species, 26% of which are Caucasus endemics

Fauna – East Caucasian tur, chamois, brown bear, golden eagle, bearded vulture

Gorges – Dariali, Truso, Sno, Khda – each with a unique landscape

Routes – from easy walks (Gveleti, 1.5 hrs) to summiting Kazbek (3–5 days)

Access – 150 km from Tbilisi on the paved Georgian Military Highway

The area around Kazbek has been inhabited since antiquity. One of only two crossings through the Caucasus range – the Dariali Pass – runs through the park. Ancient authors called it the "Gate of the Caucasus." The local Mokheve people guarded this strategic corridor for centuries. Medieval churches and towers survive in the region: Gergeti Trinity Church (14th century), Sioni Basilica, Sno Castle (17th century). The national park was established in 1976 based on an existing nature reserve.

After Georgian independence, the park came under the Agency of Protected Areas (APA). In the 2000s, tourism infrastructure developed: a visitor centre opened in Stepantsminda, trails were marked, and the Bethlemi Hut (meteorological station) was built at 3,650 m for climbers. Today the park receives tens of thousands of visitors annually while remaining a habitat for rare species listed in Georgia's Red Book.

From Tbilisi (150 km, 2.5–3 hrs):

– Marshrutka (shared minibus) from Didube bus station – 15–20 GEL (~$6–7), departing every 1–2 hrs from 9:00 AM, when full

– Shared taxi from Didube – 20–30 GEL (~$8–11) per person

– Taxi (Bolt) – 180–200 GEL (~$65–75) per car

– Car rental – paved road but mountainous; Jvari Pass (2,379 m) can be snowy in winter

From Gudauri (45 km, 1 hr):

– Taxi – 40–60 GEL (~$15–22)

– The Friendship Monument is along the way

Getting around Stepantsminda:

Local 4WD vehicles (Mitsubishi Delica) line up near the bus stop. Transfer to Gergeti – 20–50 GEL. Half-day tour (Gveleti + Dariali) – up to 80 GEL per vehicle (6–7 seats).

Season: June–September is the main hiking and trekking season. Trails are snow-free; average daytime temperature is +15–20°C. July–August is peak season.

Time of day: Early morning (before 9:00 AM) – fewer clouds, best views of Kazbek. By midday, mountains often cloud over.

Duration: 2–3 days minimum. Day 1 – Gergeti + Gveleti. Day 2 – Truso or Dariali. Day 3 – Juta/Chaukhi.

Avoid: November–April – many trails are closed by snow, Jvari Pass is sometimes shut. The Georgian Military Highway can be blocked by snowfall or landslides.