Uplistsikhe

The complex occupies a rocky plateau above the Mtkvari River. From the car park to the entrance is a 5-minute walk. The old main entrance leads up a stone path through a gate with a tower. Inside, there are three zones: lower, central (the main area), and upper, connected by narrow rock-cut passages and stone stairways.

The central street passes the main structures. To the right – the "Theatre" (probably a 1st–2nd century AD temple) with a pointed arch carved in the rock. Further left – the pre-Christian Temple of Makvliani with an inner recess behind an arched portico. Higher up – Tamaris Darbazi (Hall of Queen Tamar), the largest and most elaborately decorated cave with a coffered ceiling imitating wooden beams, all carved from rock. Two stone pillars are cut from the cliff; behind them, a stone bench. At the hilltop – Prince's Church (10th century), the only above-ground building among the rock caves.

From the highest point – a panorama of the Mtkvari valley with green fields and mountains. In the southern section – a secret tunnel carved through rock all the way to the river (emergency exit and water supply). The tunnel entrance is behind a reconstructed wall near the old gate. At the exit – a winery offering tastings of local wines (included in the 20 GEL ticket).

Age – earliest settlement traces from the late 2nd millennium BC; stone structures from the 1st millennium BC

Area – 8 hectares total, 5 excavated and open to visitors, approximately 150 surviving caves

Hall of Queen Tamar – the largest cave, with a coffered ceiling imitating wooden beams, entirely carved from rock

Secret tunnel – an underground passage from the upper city to the Mtkvari River, cut through solid rock

Population – at its medieval peak, the city housed up to 20,000 residents across some 700 caves

Architectural style – a unique blend of Anatolian, Iranian, and Georgian rock-cut traditions

Uplistsikhe emerged as a fortified settlement at the end of the 2nd millennium BC. Between the 6th and 1st centuries BC, it grew into a major political and religious centre of the pre-Christian Kingdom of Kartli, housing temples to the sun goddess. With the adoption of Christianity in the 4th century, the city began losing ground to new centres – Mtskheta and later Tbilisi. Life continued, however: the first Christian basilica was built in the 6th century.

After the Arab capture of Tbilisi in 645 AD, Uplistsikhe became the residence of Christian Kartli kings and an important trading post on the caravan route from Asia to Europe. Its population reached 20,000. After David the Builder recaptured Tbilisi in 1122, the city began to empty. The Mongol invasions of the 13th century destroyed Uplistsikhe completely. By the 19th century, the city was entirely buried under sand. Excavations began in 1957.

From Gori (15 km, 20 minutes):

– Taxi – 30–35 GEL (~$11–13) return with 1.5 hours waiting

– Minibus to Kvakhvreli – 1–2 GEL, then 2 km walk to the entrance

From Tbilisi (80 km, 1–1.5 hours):

– Shared minibus (marshrutka) from Didube to Gori – 5–7 GEL (~$2), then taxi from Gori

– Bolt taxi direct – 70–90 GEL (~$26–33)

– Day tour from Tbilisi (Mtskheta + Gori + Uplistsikhe) – from 80–120 GEL

– Car rental – free parking at the entrance

On site:

From the car park to the entrance – 5 minutes' walk. Inside the complex – walking routes along stone paths and stairways.

Season: April–June and September–October for comfortable temperatures. Spring brings wildflowers around the site. Winter is cold and windy but crowd-free.

Time of day: Morning (arrive at 10:00 opening) or late afternoon (after 15:00) – fewer tour groups and softer light. Midday in summer is very hot – virtually no shade.

Duration: 1.5–2.5 hours for a thorough visit.

Avoid: Summer midday (11:00–15:00) – open site with no shade, temperatures up to 40°C (104°F). In rain, stone surfaces are slippery.