Gonio-Apsaros Fortress

The fortress forms a rectangle of 222 by 195 meters, enclosed by massive stone walls up to 5 meters high. Eighteen towers rise up to 7 meters along the perimeter – originally there were 22. The masonry reveals three historical layers: Roman foundations from the 3rd–4th centuries, Byzantine rebuilding from the 6th–7th centuries, and Ottoman modifications from the 16th century. Inside the walls, foundations of barracks, two Roman bathhouses of different scales, a praetorium, and remnants of water supply and sewage systems are visible.

The interior is an open excavation site where archaeological work continues. At the center stands a symbolic tomb of the Apostle Matthias – church tradition places his burial here, though no archaeological evidence confirms this. Near the south gate, a small museum displays artifacts: ceramics, coins, and bronze items from various periods. The main find – the "Gonio Treasure" (gold jewelry from the 1st–3rd centuries) – is kept at the Adjara State Museum in Batumi.

The fortress walls offer views of the surrounding mountains, the Chorokhi River mouth, and the Black Sea coastline. The grounds are well-maintained with paved paths and information boards in Georgian, Russian, and English. In summer, themed events such as the Roman Festival with historical reenactments take place here.

Age – one of Georgia's oldest fortifications, linked to Pompey's military campaign in 65 BC; main walls built in the 1st century AD

Scale – 4.5 hectares, 900 m wall perimeter, walls up to 5 m high, towers up to 7 m, 18 of the original 22 towers standing

Three empires – sequentially held by Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires, each leaving a distinct archaeological layer

Archaeology – Roman baths, barracks, praetorium, water supply system, and the "Gonio Treasure" – gold artifacts from the 1st–3rd centuries AD

Argonaut myth – legend places the burial of Apsyrtus, son of Colchian King Aeëtes, killed by the Argonauts during their escape with the Golden Fleece

A fortified settlement existed at the site since the 19th century BC, but the current walls date to Roman expansion into Colchis. After Pompey's campaign in 65 BC, the Romans built a garrison fortress controlling the Chorokhi estuary and the entrance to the Caucasian Black Sea coast. From the 1st to 4th centuries AD, Apsaros fortress served as a key Roman outpost on the eastern Black Sea – housing legionaries, functioning baths, barracks, and a command post (praetorium).

In the 6th–7th centuries, the fortress came under Byzantine control and was rebuilt. From the 16th century, Gonio became an Ottoman stronghold – the Turks added merlons to the walls and modified the internal layout. In 1878, under the Treaty of Berlin, the fortress passed to the Russian Empire. Archaeological excavations have been ongoing since the mid-20th century. In 1994, the site received museum-reserve status, and since 2012 it has been part of the Adjara Cultural Heritage Preservation Agency.

From Batumi (12 km, 20–25 min):

– Bus #16 (route: railway station – airport – Gonio – Sarpi) – 1.5 GEL

– Shared minibuses (marshrutkas) #33 and #88 from Tbilisi Square – 1.5 GEL

– Bolt taxi – 10–15 GEL (~$4–5.50)

– Rent a car – free parking at the entrance

Return trip:

Same buses and minibuses run in both directions. Bolt taxi can be called from the fortress grounds.

Tip: Easy to combine with Gonio Beach (500 m) or a trip to the Sarpi border crossing (4 km further along the road).

Season: April–October for comfortable weather. July–August is hot – bring water and a hat. The fortress is open in winter but the grounds are less maintained.

Time of day: Morning (10:00–12:00) – fewer tour groups. After 15:00, the sun moves behind the walls, making photography easier.

Duration: 1–1.5 hours for a self-guided visit with the museum. With a guided tour – up to 2 hours.

Avoid: Peak summer weekends – buses are crowded and shade inside the fortress is scarce.