Himara Castle

Himara Castle is not a single structure but an entire fortified village atop a rocky hill. Narrow cobblestone lanes wind between stone houses – some abandoned and in ruins, others renovated into guesthouses and cafés. The walls are built from roughly hewn limestone, with visible masonry from different eras – Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman layers are all evident. Several Orthodox churches survive within the walls: the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (11th century) with remnants of frescoes, the Church of the Virgin Mary Kassopitra, and the Church of St. Michael (13th century). At the foot of the hill beside the SH8 highway stands the Greek-Orthodox Church of All Saints.

The main reason to climb the hill is the 360-degree panorama. To the west – Livadi Beach and the Ionian Sea, with Corfu visible on the horizon on clear days. To the south – the bay and modern Himara. To the east and north – the Visha and Kole Midhari Canyons backed by the Ceraunian Mountains. The lighting is best about an hour before sunset, when the sun bathes the stone walls in warm golden tones.

People still live inside the castle walls – several families occupy restored houses. The atmosphere is quiet, with few tourists most of the time. Café Butterfly on the upper terrace serves coffee and homemade sweets (tea – 300 ALL / ~€3). In summer the hilltop is hot with virtually no shade – bring water and a hat.

Age – fortifications on this site span approximately 3,500 years, with the earliest dating to the 8th century BC

Elevation – the hill rises 240 m above sea level, roughly 150 m above the SH8 highway

Churches – three Orthodox churches from the 11th–13th centuries inside the walls, including the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus with surviving frescoes

Panorama – 360-degree views: Ionian Sea, Corfu, Visha and Kole Midhari Canyons, Ceraunian Mountains

Living settlement – the castle is still inhabited, with several families living in restored stone houses

Cultural monument – protected by the Albanian state as a cultural heritage site

The hilltop settlement dates to approximately 1500 BC, inhabited by the Chaonians – an Illyrian (or, by some accounts, Epirote) tribe. By the 8th century BC the site had defensive walls. Under the Byzantine Empire, the fortress was significantly reinforced during Emperor Justinian's reign and became part of a chain of coastal fortifications. In the 8th century AD it became the seat of the Bishopric of Himara. Through the medieval period the castle changed hands repeatedly – between Byzantines, Normans, and Venetians.

From the 15th century, as the Ottoman Empire expanded into the region, Himara became a center of resistance. Its inhabitants were known for their fierce independence, repeatedly rebelling against Ottoman rule and reportedly maintaining ties with Skanderbeg. By the 16th century the population began moving downhill toward the coast, and the castle gradually emptied. During the 20th-century socialist era Himara fell into neglect. Today, slow restoration continues – some houses have been rebuilt, guesthouses and cafés have opened, but much of the settlement remains in ruins.

From Himara town center (2.5 km, 10 min by car):

– Walk along the SH8 toward Dhermi – 30–45 minutes uphill. Pedestrian sidewalk available

– Taxi – 500–800 ALL (~€5–8 / ~$5.50–9), agree on the fare in advance

– By car – free parking at the entrance

From Tirana (220 km, 4–5 hours):

– Bus to Himara – 1,200–1,500 ALL (~€12–15 / ~$13–16), 2–3 departures daily, then taxi or walk

– Car rental – most convenient option, scenic route via Llogara Pass

From Livadi Beach (on foot):

– Old trail through olive groves – about 40 minutes, uphill hike with coastal views

Season: April–October for comfortable weather. Open year-round but winters can be windy and rainy.

Time of day: 1–1.5 hours before sunset for the best light and cooler temperatures. Early morning (before 10:00) for fewer visitors. Avoid midday in summer.

Duration: 1–1.5 hours for the castle and old town. Add 2.5–3 hours total if walking from the town center.

Avoid: July–August midday – temperatures exceed 35°C with no shade. Summer weekends bring more tour groups.